The Price is Right

Day 25

Everyone said costing would be a nightmare. After our lecture today, however, I'm convinced that it won't be too bad. I suppose I shouldn't jinx myself before the test, though, considering I haven't taken a math class since 1999.

But anything has to be easier than turning cocottes.

The idea behind costing is that it helps a business regulate its bottom line. A series of formulas help restaurants price their menu items so they can turn a profit. Costing can be the determining factor in whether a restaurant stays afloat.

Our class had a lesson in these formulas today, along with some recipes that demonstrated how to stretch food to its max. As it turns out, stuffing is one of the best ways to do this. I'm not just referring to Thanksgiving-type dressing, although that can certainly be a part of it. Mousselines, duxelles and other fancy stuffing preparations—known as "farce" in French—can all serve this purpose and are often made from vegetable and protein trimmings.

We prepared paupiette de volaille—a butterflied chicken breast stuffed with sausage and a mushroom duxelle. It was reminiscent of dishes my mom prepared during my childhood, which is always a good thing.

You can't put a cost on the comforts of home.

Testing, Testing, 1, 2, 3

Day 20

My couch has never felt so good. In a few hours, my bed will feel even better.

Level 1 practical and comprehensive exam: I'm done with you. I made it through 90 minutes of hand-crippling tournage and taillage, followed by a written test covering the first sixth of the program. My back is stiff, my feet are sore and my mind is numb.

Going into the test, I wasn't sure what to expect. I mean, I knew what tasks were ahead of me, but I didn't know how I'd react to the time limits and pressure of the chefs' watchful eyes. I was visibly shaking during my first few cuts—as told to me by an observant fellow student who had to sit out because of a finger injury—but I made it.

The hardest part, for me, was taking apart the artichoke. I had a feeling it was going to give me trouble, and it did. Its prickly leaves (which can seriously hurt you, by the way) were flying everywhere as students used kitchen shears to expose the flesh. As I was evening out the sides with a paring knife (obviously a bit too quickly), I slipped and sliced a portion of the heart.

Hopefully, they didn't notice, 'cause I don't want to choke.

To celebrate our conclusion of Level 1, some classmates headed to The Meatball Shop on the Lower East Side. The beef meatballs with mushroom sauce, a side of polenta and an Ommegang were exactly what I needed to rest my brain.

Tomorrow begins Level 2. We have new books, new recipes, a new chef and a new kitchen. I'm pumped—especially because this section includes pastries, pasta and wine tasting. I'm ready for a new ball game.

And I could go for another one of those meatballs right about now...

Mutton, Honey

Day 19

Our class had a little lamb—and it all went in our bellies.

For the final Level 1 lesson, the chefs demoed a roasted leg of lamb with Provencal herbs; we prepared cotes d'agneau avec ratatouille (marinated lamb chops with vegetable ragout and roasted garlic butter) and navarin printanier d'agneau (lamb stew with seasonal vegetables). Good thing my chops came out a perfect medium-rare, because that was my entire lunch. And boy, were they good.

We served the stew with carrot, turnip and potato cocottes, which gave us a little extra practice for our practical tomorrow. For the test, each student is required to turn potatoes into cocottes, break down an artichoke, cook tomato fondue, and make specific cuts (julienne a carrot, jardiniere a turnip, ciseler a shallot, emincer an onion, etc.). After all that, we'll take a comprehensive written exam.

I can do this.

The most stressful part, for me, is the fact that someone will be watching over our shoulders while we complete the tasks. Why is it that when you're being monitored, you're more apt to make mistakes?

I can't believe it's almost been a month. With two shakes of a lamb's tail, Level 1 is just about complete.

Tourner Up the Heat

Day 4

My brain is turning into a cocotte.

I was warned for good reason: Tournage is hard. The French technique is used for shaping vegetables by, well, turning them in seven fluid motions. For me, it's more like 70 awkward motions.

There are five main sizes of tournage cuts, and each has a separate name; the most common (in our school, at least) is a 5-centimeter cocotte. The idea is that similar shapes and sizes are easy on the eater's eyes. It also ensures the vegetables will cook consistently.

After making cocottes from several vegetables, we turned them into a garniture bouquetiere, complete with an artichoke bottom cooked un blanc (a lemon, flour and oil solution) and filled with peas; pommes rissolees (potatoes simmered, sauteed in oil, baked in the oven and then tossed in butter); haricots verts a l'anglaise; lightly caramelized pearl onions; and carrots and turnips prepared glacer a blanc (simmered in just enough water to create a glaze, but not browned).

It sounds like a lot of work, right? It is.

So, I said I'd let you know if I was correct about the herbs. I got one correct (lovage). One out of two ain't bad.

What's bad is that I have to practice tourner tonight. How I'm going to fit that into writing down recipes for my next class and enjoying my time out with former co-workers, I have no idea.

Time to tourner up a notch.